OZtralia.tv Blog

Sea Tails: Endeavour Tall Ship

By: Phoenix Arrien

In 1768, Englishman James Cook set off in the Endeavour, to carry out scientific observations and geographical discoveries in the Pacific for the British Royal Society in conjunction with the British Admiralty.

Cook had learnt his sea craft on the merchant colliers which plied their trade along the northern coast of Britain and the Admiralty followed his recommendation that this type of vessel with its huge hold, flat bottom and sturdiness in rough seas would be the ideal exploration ship. It turned out to be a fortunate decision and the little ship proved ideal for the long hauls between land, coral reefs and the wild seas.

THE REPLICA

Two centuries later, in 1990, the Endeavour Replica was built, based on surveys from the original Bark and common 18^th Century designs. West Australian Jarrah was used to build the Replica (a departure from the English Oak used on the original) with Douglas Fir and Oregon for decks, topsides, masts and spars.

In ship talk, she is ‘ship rigged’ carrying square sails on three masts; t’gallant, topsails and courses on the fore and main mast and topsail and fore and aft course on the mizzen. The bowsprit is huge and supports a lighter jib boom from which, in typical 18^th Century style, hangs a spritsail and spritsail topsail. There are also a number of fore and aft staysails hanked permanently to their stays. Got all that?

Difficult to handle and very labour intensive, a crew of 16 lead a constantly-changing paying voyage crew of 36 on long trips (though short ones are also run), to do the necessary hard physical work over a four hour, three watch system.

Life aboard means sleeping in hammocks, living out of each other’s pockets and constantly helping to maintain parts of the wooden ship and her rigging, yet the experience is unique and many people return repeatedly.

Four supernumeraries pay a higher fee to indulge in being the ‘gentleman.’ They live in their own cabins, choose when to participate and live it up at Captain’s ‘teas’ in the Great Cabin.

However I was with the commoners in a hammock and being challenged…more next Friday.

Friday Sea Tales

By: Phoenix Arrien

Welcome to the last of my tall ships series…and this is possibly the most exciting trip out of all the ones I experience.

The initial thought that strikes people when first seeing the Bark Endeavour Replica is how authentic she looks. I realized in a flash that there is a huge difference between a modern square-rigger and an 18^th Century one. Then it hit me - she looks so tiny!

In Australian history, the Endeavour takes on a magnitude that is disproportional to her actual size. The original Endeavour was the first European vessel to circumnavigate New Zealand and prove it was a group of islands and not part of a continent. It then sailed to New Holland and charted 2,600 miles of the eastern coast, proving that this southern land mass, later Australia, was a continent and claiming it for the British. The ensuing convict settlements would change the face of the region.

Yet, for a ship representing such historical clout, the replica is only 109 feet with a beam of 29 feet and carries 56 people for voyages of up to several weeks. The original, 106 feet, had 94 men aboard…plus live animals…cooped together for three years.

For me it was only to be an attempt to survive with fifty people for three weeks…and that was tricky enough. More next Friday…

OZtralia Sailing Adventures

By: Phoenix Arrien
As I approached the wharf in Geelong on the southern coast of Australia I stopped and stared in awe. I was looking at a tall ship and she was stunning.

The One & All is beautiful; a sleek two masted Brigantine. Designed by a racing yacht designer, it’s a vessel boasting clean flowing lines and a white hull. I boarded her with glee; this was going to be great.

We sailed out of Geelong and into the Southern Ocean aiming for South Australia. Having experienced the Leeuwin, I found this sail easier and soon fitted in with the four hour shifts that crewing tall ship demands.

The captain on a sailing ship is the pinnacle of a hierarchy stretching back centuries and his or her word is law. Next in charge is the Mate, then it goes to bosuns, engineers and most importantly a cook, for every ship runs on its stomach.

Storms blew in after the second day and we tossed about on the ocean like a white matchstick. For several days, we ploughed on. Fog closed in around us and visibility dropped to metres.  The sheer cliffs of the Great Ocean Road vanished into greyness until sighting the Warrnambool lighthouse we found shelter at Portland. The West Victorian coastline is also appropriately called the shipwreck coast and skeletons of many vessels litter the seabeds.

We were pitching hard. Were we going to join them? Next Friday find out…

Final Leeuwin Sailing Adventure

By: Phoenix Arrien
Lemme say, I feel proud. I am. ‘Coz me biggest personal challenge came on the last day.

Starting off with a confident step, I bounce up each rung towards the top of the 33 metre main mast. Halfway up I am clinging to the ropes with every inch of my shaking body in complete fear-of-heights terror.

Three quarters up and I am dragging myself inch by inch up the rigging. The boat, far below, rocks on an ocean that stretches to infinity. People are moving insects. Breathing becomes short and shallow. Sea birds soar below me.

As I go higher, the rigging gets narrower and the cables I grip get thinner. The stairway to heaven is tricky.

Well, I coulda done it but ‘twas nice of the Bosun, to shin up the ladder like a lemming to slap me on the back and talk o the weather. Together we reach the end of the rigging and suddenly I am on top of the world. Standing up on the rigging and clutching the top few metres of white mast I felt top o the world.

We rounded Rottnest Island feelin’ better then a dog in a dustbin, topped by the grand entry into Fremantle Harbour where people stared at the ghost from the great age of sailing. With full sails billowing, and towering over other boats in the harbour, we made our way to our berth.

I waved to the waiting landlubbers as I stood nonchanantly up in the rigging, ho hum, no sweat.

Want to have try:

For most voyages on the Leeuwin no previous sailing experience is needed. The Leeuwin Ocean Adventure Foundation provides food, accommodation, safety equipment, wet weather gear and instruction.  A list of what to bring is sent to you.

Prices vary. Duration of trips range from overnighters to multi-week international voyages. Most voyages are in Western Australia with occasional international trips. Visit website www.sailleeuwin.com/

Next week we join the One & All tall ship for a sail along the southern coast of Australia, facing the might Southern Ocean…