Great Australian Wine

South Australian Wine Part Two

By: Phoenix Arrien

The origins of Coonawarra is based on the humanitarian efforts of a Scotsman called John Riddoch who subdivided his large estate to stimulate employment and immigration in the 1800’s. Fruit was grown until after World War I when only the Redman family were able to keep up table wine production. Samuel Wynn is attributed to boosting the renaissance of the area after World War II when the winegrowers of the area combined their efforts to create a unique and thriving community of specialized branding.

The history surrounded us as we walked up to the sculptured horses at the entrance to the Rymill Winery. The two fighting stallions are all power and glory as they reared up, hooves trying to get a hold on the other’s metal skin, teeth bared as they threw their powerful necks towards each other for a bite on a neck or ear. It’s the time honoured tradition of fighting for supremacy and while the competition is very low key in Coonawarra, almost non-existent in a carefully cultivated environment of mutual support, each winery strives to produce the best wines it can in a competitive market.

Rymill is on part of the original Riddoch run and you know you are tasting long tradition and generations of careful grape cultivation here. Rymill’s tasting room is a grand affair, all chrome and glass, spacious and airy. Apart from their trademark Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlots, on offer are exclusive cellar door sales of a Pinot Noir Chardonnay and a rich red intriguingly called Bees Knees.

With the red wine man, Andrew Rymill himself, pouring the drops, the rich red and sparkling white fluids swam around our mouths, teetered on the edge of our throats for one extra tastebud explosion before falling down into our stomachs with the ease of a professional Olympic diver. An especially nice 2000 Pinot Noir Chardonnay cleansed the pallet with its crispness just nicely to allow the passionfruit characters of the unoaked Sauvignon Blanc to roll around the mouth unhindered.

Our limbs tingling, we went upstairs for an appreciative view of the green shagpile carpets of leafy vines stretching to the horizon. The 100 hectare property baked in the sun and you could almost hear the grapes crying out for the coolness of the oak barrels inside.

A quick run in the limo and were inside the pretty triple gabled stone building on the Wynn’s estate. We were welcomed into the large tasting room where exposed beams held up the roof under which we settled in for a glorious session of wine, humour and titbits of grape information.

Starting with their Shiraz’s and finishing nicely with their very drinkable and well known Samuel Port, we chatted with the friendly staff and I contemplated how important the whole experience becomes when you undertake a winery tour: the wines, the transport, the scenery, the staff, the atmosphere in the tasting rooms….and so far Coonawarra had not disappointed.

Tomorrow it will be time to look at other things than wine (is there anything else in life?)

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