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Sea Tails: Endeavour Tall Ship

By: Phoenix Arrien

In 1768, Englishman James Cook set off in the Endeavour, to carry out scientific observations and geographical discoveries in the Pacific for the British Royal Society in conjunction with the British Admiralty.

Cook had learnt his sea craft on the merchant colliers which plied their trade along the northern coast of Britain and the Admiralty followed his recommendation that this type of vessel with its huge hold, flat bottom and sturdiness in rough seas would be the ideal exploration ship. It turned out to be a fortunate decision and the little ship proved ideal for the long hauls between land, coral reefs and the wild seas.

THE REPLICA

Two centuries later, in 1990, the Endeavour Replica was built, based on surveys from the original Bark and common 18^th Century designs. West Australian Jarrah was used to build the Replica (a departure from the English Oak used on the original) with Douglas Fir and Oregon for decks, topsides, masts and spars.

In ship talk, she is ‘ship rigged’ carrying square sails on three masts; t’gallant, topsails and courses on the fore and main mast and topsail and fore and aft course on the mizzen. The bowsprit is huge and supports a lighter jib boom from which, in typical 18^th Century style, hangs a spritsail and spritsail topsail. There are also a number of fore and aft staysails hanked permanently to their stays. Got all that?

Difficult to handle and very labour intensive, a crew of 16 lead a constantly-changing paying voyage crew of 36 on long trips (though short ones are also run), to do the necessary hard physical work over a four hour, three watch system.

Life aboard means sleeping in hammocks, living out of each other’s pockets and constantly helping to maintain parts of the wooden ship and her rigging, yet the experience is unique and many people return repeatedly.

Four supernumeraries pay a higher fee to indulge in being the ‘gentleman.’ They live in their own cabins, choose when to participate and live it up at Captain’s ‘teas’ in the Great Cabin.

However I was with the commoners in a hammock and being challenged…more next Friday.

Final Leeuwin Sailing Adventure

By: Phoenix Arrien
Lemme say, I feel proud. I am. ‘Coz me biggest personal challenge came on the last day.

Starting off with a confident step, I bounce up each rung towards the top of the 33 metre main mast. Halfway up I am clinging to the ropes with every inch of my shaking body in complete fear-of-heights terror.

Three quarters up and I am dragging myself inch by inch up the rigging. The boat, far below, rocks on an ocean that stretches to infinity. People are moving insects. Breathing becomes short and shallow. Sea birds soar below me.

As I go higher, the rigging gets narrower and the cables I grip get thinner. The stairway to heaven is tricky.

Well, I coulda done it but ‘twas nice of the Bosun, to shin up the ladder like a lemming to slap me on the back and talk o the weather. Together we reach the end of the rigging and suddenly I am on top of the world. Standing up on the rigging and clutching the top few metres of white mast I felt top o the world.

We rounded Rottnest Island feelin’ better then a dog in a dustbin, topped by the grand entry into Fremantle Harbour where people stared at the ghost from the great age of sailing. With full sails billowing, and towering over other boats in the harbour, we made our way to our berth.

I waved to the waiting landlubbers as I stood nonchanantly up in the rigging, ho hum, no sweat.

Want to have try:

For most voyages on the Leeuwin no previous sailing experience is needed. The Leeuwin Ocean Adventure Foundation provides food, accommodation, safety equipment, wet weather gear and instruction.  A list of what to bring is sent to you.

Prices vary. Duration of trips range from overnighters to multi-week international voyages. Most voyages are in Western Australia with occasional international trips. Visit website www.sailleeuwin.com/

Next week we join the One & All tall ship for a sail along the southern coast of Australia, facing the might Southern Ocean…

Sailing in Australia

By: Phoenix Arrien

A half-naked waiter delicately hands me another Martini as I lounge on the sun deck, another is massaging my feet and there is a queue of them holding platters of tropical fruits until….

“Git that sail furled on the T’Gallant,” comes the roar from the Bosun below.

Shiver me tinnies, it’s just some stress-induced daydream. I am actually standing on a thin rope 25 metres above a heaving ocean with three others attempting to tuck a gigantic piece of heavy canvas the size of 20 King size beds around the highest beam jutting out from the foremast. That, um, very piece of wood around which I had wrapped my body and clutching for me life, while the ship rocked and rolled like an enthusiastic belly dancer.

Mother Mary save me, instead of being a pampered aristo’ on a cruise ship, I am actually a wretch on the Leeuwin, an Australian 16^th Century replica sailing ship and my stomach is about to cover the deck in glorious colour…will I embarrass myself? Will I fall into the sea? Join me next Friday and have a seadog of a weekend!